Getting ready to go


Yesterday my wonderful co-workers threw me a surprise farewell party with this amazing cake! Teresa added roadkill in the form of a gorilla, a lion, and a camel. The group also gave us Exxon Mobil gas cards which will of course come in very handy. It was incredibly nice of them!

We leave on Monday (June 12) and return to Boston on July 18th. Check back for updates once we get on the road!

Finished packing . . .


It's amazing how much stuff we think we're going to need for the next 37 days. Thankfully, my parents offered to let us use their new minivan for our trip so we'll have a lot more space than we had originally thought. Plus, if it pours while we're camping we can sleep in the car!

Friday was our last day at work and we're both excited to be done and actually getting on the road. I attached a photo of the beautiful flowers my sweet brother sent to congratulate me on finishing work (you may notice a pattern with both this photo and the one of my cake being featured on this site: if you do something nice for me or send something my way, I will make a big deal about it. In case you were thinking of doing something nice . . . ). This weekend was my 5th reunion at Harvard which was a great time - it was so good to see everyone. I am, however, pretty tired and have been nominated for the first shift of driving tomorrow morning. Just a few last-minute things and we'll enjoy our last night at home.

Stay tuned for an update tomorrow from our first stop ~ Canton, Ohio!

Day 1: Bedford to Canton, OH



Miles driven: 676
States visited: 6
Inexplicable traffic jams on I-80 in Central Pennsylvania: 4
Soda bottles filled with urine seen on side of road during said traffic jams: 2
Decapitated deer seen on side of road being eaten by vultures: 1


We got off to a great start this morning - well, half an hour later than Steve had wanted to be on the road but that seemed pretty good given everything we had to do to get out the door. It was a beautiful day and Mom took pictures of us and the car before we left (Dad had left for a business trip the night before so we had said our goodbyes earlier). It was sad to leave, but we were excited to be on our way!

I (Ali) drove the first 5 hours through Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, and into Pennsylvania. Steve had chosen a place for lunch in the small town of White Haven, PA from his “Roadfood” book (I’m sure you’ll hear more about that book later) but unfortunately we arrived just before they closed. Foiled at stop #1! We had a good meal across the street at Hannah’s Ugly Mug restaurant, though, and Steve took over behind the wheel.

After a couple of hours on I-80, we hit some serious traffic, the kind where people get out of their cars and mill around. It was frustrating since there was no apparent reason for the hold up. Who would have thought that Central and Western Pennsylvania traffic would cause us to be a couple of hours behind schedule?

As Steve was driving through the mountains of Pennsylvania, he commented how underrated he thought the terrain of this state is. It was quite a beautiful ride at times. In an article he had recently read about (crazy) people who actually spend a few months running across the country, several runners had commented that while you would expect the Rocky Mountains to be the most challenging area to run through, they actually found the hills of Pennsylvania to be the toughest part. I wonder if they ever experienced traffic jams on I-80 . . .

We’re staying in Canton tonight and will head to the Pro Football Hall of Fame tomorrow morning. Then it is on to Louisville, KY.



The inside of the car is nice and clean, at least for now



Damn you I-80!!!!!



Here is our car's air freshener!

Day 2: Canton, OH and Louisville, KY

Miles driven to-date: 1,019
States visited to-date: 7
Giant billboards on highway reading "Hell Is Real": 1


We began the day by visiting the Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton. The building was sort of old but had a lot of interesting memorabilia and information. The newer wing was really nice and we watched a movie about training camp and the journey through an NFL season in the large theatre there. Steve almost broke out in hives when they showed a video of athletic trainers at work during camp. He kept mentioning how he thought it was a travesty that the Hall did not have an exhibit on the 2000 New England Patriots athletic training staff; he is considering writing a harsh letter to the museum curator.

We then drove a couple of hours before stopping for lunch outside of Cincinnati at a place in "Roadfood" that is known for its chili - Blue Ash Chili in Blue Ash, OH. Apparently, chili in this part of the country consists of spaghetti noodles, meat sauce, and (if you so desire) onions, cheese, and beans. It was pretty tasty though nothing compared to Mom's great version of this dish! Then we hit the road again to arrive in Louisville in the early evening. I went to the gym while Steve went for a run to get a lay of the land. He came back quite impressed with the interesting neighborhoods he found in Louisville - he thinks a quick run is a great way to become familiar with a new city.

We're staying (using points!) at a Hampton Inn right downtown, so the location is ideal. Dinner was of the healthy variety ~ ice cream and cake from another "Roadfood" favorite, a place called Homemade Ice Cream and Pie Kitchen in the eclectic Bardstown section just outside of downtown Louisville. I tried the creme brulée ice cream . . . we kept thinking of how much Jesse would have loved the place. We also remarked on how the sun didn't set until 9:30pm now that we are so far west in the Eastern time zone. Steve was especially impressed by the neighborhoods on the outskirts of downtown Louisville and the fun little restaurants and bars we saw. I think he wants to move here.

After "dinner" we went to the Seelbach Hotel, a famous old downtown hotel that has hosted 9 presidents, F. Scott Fitzgerald (he wrote about it in "The Great Gatsby"), and was a favorite hangout of Al Capone. It was clearly a local landmark and we enjoyed wine at the bar. We then strolled along Fourth Street Live, an area of shops and restaurants between the Seelbach and our hotel. Today was a great day (no traffic problems!) and we're both having a wonderful time. Tomorrow we are going to the races at Churchill Downs and then head to Nashville . . . thanks for checking in, we hope you enjoy the blog so far!



The outside of the Hall of Fame.


One of the most moving and interesting exhibits was about the involvement of NFL players and personnel in various world wars; they had Pat Tillman's jersey and uniform on display.


Steve was thrilled to discover a whole exhibit on athletic trainers in the NFL!


There was a photo in this exhibit of the two trainers Steve worked with while at the Patriots.


Fourth Street Live in downtown Louisville . . . just a few minutes away from our hotel.

Day 3: Louisville and Nashville

Miles driven to-date: 1,200
States visited to-date: 8


This morning I (Ali) went for a run around our hotel in downtown Louisville. It was fun to peek inside the window of the Louisville Slugger Factory and Museum where I saw workers making the famous bats; the building is marked by a 120 foot high replica of a bat sticking up into the sky. I also saw the large Muhammad Ali Center (he was born and raised in Louisville).

We ate at “the” place for breakfast around here: Lynn’s Paradise Café. The owner sponsors an annual “Ugly Lamp” contest and the winning lights rest on each table. Needless to say it was an interesting and yummy experience. Here is a photo of the inside of the restaurant:



Next stop was Churchill Downs, where we visited the Kentucky Derby Museum. We saw lots of memorabilia and artifacts, and took a tour of the beautiful grounds. It was so nice! They had just finished a $95 million renovation of the clubhouse and it was beautiful. We both agree that it put Belmont to shame!


The famous twin spires at Churchill Downs


We then watched a few horse races from our box seats and proceeded to lose some money. I tried a mint julep while Steve enjoyed a few cold beers. Our hats aren’t quite up to Kentucky Derby standards but we gave it our best shot:



Next it was on to Nashville, about a 3 hour drive from Louisville. We stayed at a Sheraton (points again!) downtown so we could walk everywhere. We gained an hour as we switched time zones, which meant more time for enjoying the nightlife.

We walked to the newly-revived 2nd Avenue area which was great - lined on both sides with bars and restaurants. First we had dinner and beers, and then headed to the Wild Horse Saloon, a three-story country music bar with live music and country line dancing. We watched the great house band (bought their CD to bring home!) and marveled at the skills of the other dancers before we partook in a country line dancing lesson ourselves. After a few repetitions we got the moves down and it was really fun though I’m sure others giggled at the uncoordinated Yankees, especially the guy with the long neck.

We then wandered down Broadway, another great street with lots of bars and country music clubs. We had some beers at Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, a famous Nashville haunt that has hosted countless performers. After realizing that just about everyone had signed the walls with their names, we added “SoSA ‘06” to the collection for posterity!




All in all it was a great day and we were excited to explore more of Nashville in the morning.

Day 4: Nashville (second day) and Memphis

Miles driven to-date: 1,442
States visited to-date: 8


We began the day bright and early with a trip to the Country Music Hall of Fame here in Nashville. The building is shaped like a giant piano:


The H of F contained many cool artifacts, costumes, platinum albums, and even Elvis’s solid gold piano and Cadillac (we learned that the car’s pearly sheen was achieved by mixing ground-up diamonds with fish scales . . . ). We left with a new appreciation for the history of this type of music, and I promptly created a country playlist on my iPod so we could soak up more of the genre in the car.

After the Hall of Fame, we wandered down Broadway again in search of some cowboy boots for me. I was hoping to find a “less nice” pair that would serve me well on Halloween and for the occasional theme party, but they were really expensive so I abandoned the quest. Maybe in Oklahoma City tomorrow . . . We then had some amazing bar-b-q at Jack’s, a suggestion posted by Steve’s Dad in the comments section of this blog last night (see how much influence you readers have on our itinerary?). It was a GREAT idea ~ we had smoked sausage with six different dipping sauces. My clothes still smell vaguely of bar-b-q and each time I get a whiff, I start drooling. Thanks for the suggestion!


We then drove over to the Grand Ole Opry which is a few miles outside of the city. Concerts are only held on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays so we just wandered around but could tell it would be a really fun place to see a show. They also had a great free museum there.

After leaving Nashville, we drove about three hours to Memphis where once again we’re staying in the thick of things downtown. We headed to Beale Street for dinner, drinks, and some blues music. We ate at BB King’s restaurant and enjoyed some great live music over dinner. We also tried the local “must have” dish of fried pickles, which were actually pretty good!

We then ventured to another bar to hear more blues, and we weren’t disappointed. The band playing there was incredible and even featured some dueling harmonicas. I bought another CD as a souvenir. It was yet another great day. Tomorrow, as Paul Simon would say, “I’m going to Graceland!”



Just like that other song says, I'm walking in Memphis, walking with my feet ten feet off of Beale . . .


Dueling harmonicas! The guy on the left was amazing.


Famous Beale Street at night.

Just wanted to mention that we may not have internet access tomorrow night (in Oklahoma City) or the next night (in Flagstaff, AZ) but please stay tuned over the weekend. Hope you are all well! We miss you!

Day 5: Memphis (Graceland) and on to Oklahoma City

Miles driven to-date: 1,929
States visited to-date: 10

After quick workouts in the morning including a nice run along the Mississippi, we hustled over to Graceland for our 9:00am tour. Neither of us expected much more than tackiness and crowds, but we were pleasantly surprised by how fun and interesting it was to see the second most visited home in the U.S. (after . . . can you guess? The White House!).

The house itself was frozen in the mid-70’s and the decorations and furniture were outrageous. Steve is excited to bring some of Elvis’s touches (seen below in the TV room) to our house in Williamsburg:



It was more interesting than I had anticipated to learn about the King’s life, and I was reminded once again of what an influence he had on pop culture and music. We loved touring the grounds and seeing his extravagant style. Visiting his grave site in the meditation garden was moving, and the grounds were beautiful.



The car museum contained 21 of Elvis’s autos like the famous pink Cadillac, and we also boarded his huge private jet (called the Lisa Marie) to see its many extravagances like the 24-carat gold seatbelt buckles.



As we left, Steve added “SoSA ‘06” to the thousands of other signatures on the wall in front of Graceland!



Before saying farewell to Memphis, we had some great BBQ at Cozy Corner, a restaurant we had read about in several different books. It definitely did not disappoint!

We drove about 3 hours into Arkansas (not much to see except for farmland) and stopped at another “Roadfood” favorite for milkshakes. While listening to a local radio station driving through Little Rock, I heard the announcer refer to residents of Arkansas as “Ar-Kansans” which made me realize I would never have known how to refer to people who live in that state!

We crossed into Oklahoma and stopped for gas in a tiny town announced by a giant billboard as the hometown of American Idol winner Carrie Underwood. Here’s a photo of the sign:

The rest of the drive to Oklahoma City was uneventful but quite pretty. We saw lots of bales of hay and cattle, including a few swimming across a river. We both commented about how windy it was in Oklahoma; the wind really whips right through the open plains.

In Oklahoma City, we had dinner at the famous Cattlemen’s Steakhouse. We saw lots of locals wearing cowboy hats there, and the food was amazing since the place is situated right in the stockyards. The steaks were unbelievable.

We then visited a local brewery in the Bricktown district which has lots of bars and nightclubs. It was quite a fun spot with a canal running through the four block area (and the happy hour beers were only $1.50!). Once again, our hotel was right downtown so it was an easy walk home after another great day.

On a side note, Steve was particular impressed with Oklahoma City. Having heard the horror stories from his Dad’s many travels there, he was mighty surprised. He thinks it’s a great little city that doesn’t get enough credit!

Day 6 (part 1): Oklahoma City Memorial

Miles driven to-date: 2,307
States visited to-date: 12


We squeezed quick workouts in this morning before heading to the Oklahoma City Memorial, a tribute to the unforgettable tragedy of April 19, 1995. It was just a few blocks from our hotel, reminding us of how misfortune can strike anywhere, anytime.

The Memorial encompasses the area of the bombed Alfred Murrah Federal Building and was incredibly moving. Two large gates mark the east and west entrances and are inscribed with 9:01 (the minute before the attack) and 9:03 (the minute after, when everything was forever changed). A shallow reflecting pool connects the two “Gates of Time.”


A field of empty chairs pays homage to the 168 people who died in the tragedy. The smaller chairs memorialize the 19 children who died in the on-site daycare center and brought me to tears.


This tree – situated right next to the building – endured the blast and has ever since been called the Survivor Tree. It is surrounded by an orchard of other trees meant to symbolize the help that rushed in from people around the nation and world.

A museum now sits adjacent to the Memorial and provided incredible details about what happened that day, the people who were affected, and the search for and capture of the perpetrators. One of the unforgettable stories described there told of a woman whose leg was trapped under a beam for hours while rescuers tried to pull her out. Their efforts were hampered by rumors of a second bomb in the building, and eventually they decided the beam couldn’t be moved because it might cause the rest of the building to collapse. To get the woman out, a doctor amputated her leg without anesthesia since there was no time or supplies; in fact, he had to use a dull pocket knife and his left hand because of the cramped quarters. The woman survived but two of her family members died in the attack.

(above) A message from one of the rescue workers still remains.


We left the Memorial feeling somber but grateful for the safety of friends and family like you all! If you are ever in this part of the country, I highly recommend stopping by the Memorial to pay tribute.

On a lighter note, on our way out of Oklahoma we saw countless signs for a restaurant offering a free 72-oz steak if you could eat it within an hour (but to actually get it for free, you have to eat the accompanying shrimp cocktail, salad, baked potato, and bread too). It’s probably a good thing that we decided to forego that challenge . . . We were also intrigued to see a sign for rattlesnakes for sale, and another one boasting that we would soon pass the “largest cross in the Western hemisphere.” It was erected by the father of NFL star Zach Thomas and really was huge - here’s a picture:

It was interesting to see so many religious billboards and religious-themed paraphernalia at rest stops. This part of the country certainly feels different from Boston!

Next we planned to make a quick stop at a restaurant in Amarillo, Texas on our way to New Mexico. Let’s just say this was the highlight of our trip so far and definitely deserves its own posting, so stay tuned . . .

Day 6 (part 2): Golden Light Café in Amarillo, Texas



Steve had read about the Golden Light Café, located on historic Route 66 in Amarillo TX, in “Roadfood” and based on our route, we figured it made sense to stop there for a quick bite on the way to New Mexico. We arrived at around 5:00pm and were greeted by our friendly waitress Courtney. We ordered a couple of Shiner Bock’s (a Texas beer) and when she saw our Massachusetts licenses, she asked how we heard about the place. We explained about “Roadfood” and the fun began.


Courtney returned with four beers instead of just the two we had ordered and said they were compliments of the owner Marc, who was out back and was glad we had stopped by. She then brought over Golden Light t-shirts for us and a moment later, we were approached by two friendly patrons. They had heard we were from Boston and asked us to join them on the back porch with the rest of the Saturday regulars. We couldn’t have asked for a better local experience on our trip! This was the nicest group of people and we were both touched by how welcoming they were. Here is a photo of us with the Golden Light Saturday crew:


We chatted, drank great beer in the Texas heat, and enjoyed delicious food (including a dish kind of like nachos but made with Fritos – amazing!) with these great people, and we ended up staying for four or five hours. We learned about their annual tradition called “Quituation” which began as a retirement party but became a yearly celebration of anything you’ve quit ~ a marriage, a job, anything. Dale showed us the blue school bus he’s renovating, and Katie described what it’s like to get a mammogram (good luck at your appointment on Tuesday, Katie!). Roger and Steve traded hats, and Steve is now the proud owner of a Buck’s Sporting Goods cap while Roger may be seen around Amarillo wearing a Michigan hat.



Steve and Dale on the big blue bus.



The bar next door (where we heard the evening’s entertainment doing their sound check) displays these seats which used to be in the movie theatre where “The Last Picture Show” was filmed.



Our t-shirts from the Golden Light. I’m wearing mine right now!

These nice folks were interested to learn about our trip and wanted us to alter our itinerary so we could spend at least the night in Amarillo, if not longer. We wished so much that we had time to stay and see more of their town but alas, the road was calling. We needed to get to Tucumcari, NM since we had reservations at the Blue Swallow Motel, which ended up being another great stop during SoSA.

We can’t thank Marc and all the kind folks at Golden Light enough for a wonderful afternoon and evening (thanks especially to Roger for generously picking up the tab for our beers and dinner!). It was a truly unforgettable experience, and we’ve both vowed to try to bring some of your wonderful perspective on life home with us. We hope you all enjoy reading the blog during the rest of our trip!

Next we made our way into a beautiful sunset as we drove to New Mexico, where we arrived at the Blue Swallow Motel on Route 66 . . .

Day 6 (part 3): Blue Swallow Motel in Tucumcari, NM

Miles driven to-date: 2,442
States visited to-date: 12


After such a great experience at the Golden Light, we figured the day couldn’t get any better. Well, we were in for a treat as soon as we met Bill, owner of the Blue Swallow Motel. The motel is an icon to a fascinating bygone era (we learned that James Dean stayed there quite a few times!) and it was a really fun experience. Situated right on Route 66, the sign’s neon lights and wonderful setting made for a great night.

Bill showed us around and explained that he and his wife Terri go to great lengths to make their guests feel truly at home – which we did! One of the nicest touches is that Bill takes a photo of all of his guests in front of the famous neon sign, and presents a hard copy as a souvenir the next day when they check out. An old fashioned refrigerator sits in the front office, and guests can buy sodas (on the honor system) for $.50. Our room was adjacent to a garage spot for the car; inside the garage flashed a “Free TV” sign from the days when that was unusual and the motel advertised that as one of its amenities. Knowing we had much to post on our blog, we asked about internet access and Bill set us up on the patio outside of his room so we could hook up to their wireless. We wrote postcards, worked on the blog, and enjoyed the beautiful evening air. The bed was incredibly comfortable and we slept like babies.



The garage where we parked the car.



Relaxing on the patio, checking e-mail!

Day 7: Santa Fe and on to Flagstaff, AZ

Miles driven to-date: 2,875
States visited to-date: 13

We awoke in our comfortable bed at the Blue Swallow and wished we had more time to chat with Bill and Terri. We had such a great experience at the motel and hope to be able to visit again. Bill, if you’re reading this, good luck with the fountain renovations!

We drove a few hours to Santa Fe and stopped for lunch at a restaurant right in the old part of the city. We tried their famous green chiles and had some amazing tortilla soup. We have definitely not been holding back in the eating department, which has been great as far as experiencing the local flavor but probably isn’t helping our figures much.

We walked around and enjoyed the beautiful streets and shops. There was a crafts fair taking place in an open plaza so we browsed lots of nice turquoise jewelry and artwork.

We then visited the Loretto Chapel which is famous for its “miraculous” staircase; a mysterious carpenter built it and disappeared before seeking payment, so legend holds that he was St. Joseph. The staircase is an architectural marvel because there is nothing supporting it, and was featured on “Unsolved Mysteries” not too long ago.

We also saw the oldest house in the United States (below) from 1646, as well as the oldest church. Santa Fe is certainly a great town and we enjoyed the afternoon, in spite of the sweltering heat!

Once again it was back on the road again. We stopped for lemonade in Albuquerque but had a long drive ahead of us so we put the pedal to the metal and kept moving toward Flagstaff, Arizona. Steve had wanted to stop in Winslow, AZ so we could live out the words from the Eagles song "Take it Easy" ("standing on the corner in Winslow Arizona . . .") but the town was so small that we passed it by accident! The sunset was beautiful and it’s been so interesting to see the different terrain as we make our way farther west. We stayed at a Days Inn in Flagstaff and it’s on to the Grand Canyon, where we’ll camp for the night!

Thanks for checking in and reading our posts. We love getting your comments and are glad to hear you’ve enjoyed following along. I somehow doubt we’ll have internet access at the Grand Canyon so we’ll try to post again on Tuesday or Wednesday nights. Hope you are all well!

Day 8: Grand Canyon (first day)

Miles driven to-date: 2,965
States visited to-date: 13


This morning we awoke at the Days Inn in Flagstaff, AZ on Route 66 and drove about 90 miles to the Grand Canyon. While we had heard great things about the “big hole in the ground,” we were preparing ourselves for disappointment – we figured it couldn’t be all that great, and braced ourselves for large crowds of fellow tourists. Upon arriving, we flashed our fancy National Parks Pass and entered the maze of roads leading to the campground where we were due to check in. The plan was to pitch our tent and get our campsite set up before seeing what all of the fuss was about. Well, we didn’t make it that far; as we drove into the park, we caught a glimpse of the Canyon and just had to pull over to take a look. We were amazed! It was unbelievable and quite literally jaw-dropping.


The photos all of you have seen really don’t do it justice. That didn’t stop us, of course, from taking 140 of our own pictures with which we plan to bore you when we return, but it’s nothing like actually being there. Steve thought it looked almost fake, like the backdrop of a movie set. I was also somewhat surprised by how close you can actually get to the huge drop-offs. They say that hundreds of people die each year from falling over the edge, and I certainly believe it now.


We did eventually tear ourselves away from the view to set up our campsite which was a fun process in its own right. We had picked up sandwich fixings and Steve got some Fat Tire, one of his favorite beers (featured below in a quintessential lunch-while-camping shot).


After lunch we headed back to the Canyon to do a five-mile walk / hike along the South Rim which was a great way to see many of the beautiful views. You can see in the below photo that in some places I was a little too scared to actually walk to the edge to look down, so I crawled!



It was a gorgeous day ~ warm but not too hot, and it was a nice cool evening for sleeping in our tent (plus there were no bugs at all). We kept thinking of you, Rusty, as we “roughed it” and we knew you and many others checking in at home would have loved it here too.


We decided to enjoy the sunset from Hopi Point on the western side of the South Rim. That is supposed to be one of the best places to watch the sun go down and it was certainly beautiful, though the other thousand tourists also watching and taking photos made it a slightly less than intimate setting. Still, it was gorgeous and we got some great photos. I thought of you several times during the beautiful evening hours, Bill, because it seemed like there could be nothing better in life than to enjoy one’s book while soaking in the great sunset!